Threading Modernity with Tradition: Jamakkalam Weavers of Tamil Nadu
India’s journey to modernity is often at odds with its deeply tangled ties with tradition. The growing influence of global culture that was once the keepsake of a small class of people, enjoyed almost exclusively within the public sphere, has permeated the walls of middle-class households. An air of westernisation touches every part of India’s population from its food, music, and art to most prominently, its fashion. From our uniforms to our daily wear, our clothes reflect our increasing contact with the world. The Indian market is flooded with European as well as American brands and silhouettes, becoming increasingly normalised within the Indian daily life. With the introduction and acceleration of fast fashion brands which are highly Euro-centric, and increasingly affordable, the very uniform of the common man is changed within the country. The flamboyant saris, salwars, lungis, and dhotis give way to the simplified pants, suits and shirts of the West. In the face of such strenuous competition, it becomes harder for traditional Indian handlooms to gain popularity within the country’s populace.
One such practice nearing its extinction is that of the Jamakkalam weavers of the Bhavani region in Tamil Nadu. These weavers in Periyamolapalayam in Erode district have been transforming coarse cotton threads into beautiful carpets for around 200 years. These woven fabrics have been given the status of Geographical Indication in 2006. Jamakkalam weaves have been made since before colonialism and have been produced independently in the homes of the people of Tamil Nadu for centuries. The beautiful striped cotton takes most commonly the form of mats, which are seen everywhere from wedding feasts to prayer rooms, lending a touch of heritage to every space and event. The love for Jamakkalam, however, is not just local as the market for it spreads to areas like Orissa, Karnataka, Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh and also internationally to various Gulf countries.
Jamakkalam or Bhavani Jamakkalam, is of two main types, a coarser cotton used for making carpets and blankets, and a finer and softer variety which is used for making border designs on saris. Jamakkalam is seen in the six traditional colours of red, blue, green, white, orange, and yellow. Its distinct style and manifold use has graced the manufacturing city of Bhavani with the name of the “Carpet City”. It had humble beginnings under the roofs of Tamil households where it was created by members of the family locally, but later came to be manufactured on a larger scale by communities of weavers being taught and supervised by master weavers. Thus, Jamakkalam became more than just a fabric but an economic enterprise, a piece of history, and most importantly, a means of livelihood for the people of Bhavani.
For the last few years, the art of Jamakkalam has been dying a slow and painful death. The once common household item which graced the houses of numerous people, is gradually disappearing. This tragedy can be attributed to the rise of power looms and the decreasing demand of hand-woven materials. The painstaking time and effort taken to make the traditional weave is being replaced with the cost-efficient industrial production which fits the capitalistic mould. The result is the high rate of production of cheaper alternatives to age old traditions. Legally, the Jamakkalam weavers are protected under The Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act of 1985 which preserves the monopoly of certain traditional handlooms. In practice, however, the power looms are taking over the traditional weavers’ livelihoods leaving them in economic distress. The loss in profits have pushed most weavers out of the business and reduced them to factory workers or labourers. With the rising influence of industry-made products, it is probable that the present generation of weavers will be the last to create this beautiful textile.
The end of tradition does not go unchallenged though, as numerous people and organisations have taken a step towards gathering consciousness to this soon to be lost art. One of these initiatives is the ‘Centre for Weavers’ which was set up in January 2023, as an effort to transform Jamakkalam into a marketable product that appealed to the modern masses. Their organisation aims to reinvent the purpose of Jamakkalam while preserving the authenticity of its manufacturing process. Jamakkalam is rethought in a way which absorbs the textile back into the homes of common people in a new and innovative way. They are one of the few organisations working on employing weavers to revive this piece of South Indian cultural heritage.
Another innovative collective that is making an effort to keep this textile practice afloat is ‘Erode Clothing’. Erode works with local weavers in the area, providing them with employment opportunities and fair wages, thus garnering incentive back into the art. The brand transforms tradition by using the centuries old textile and adapting into a modern and familiar silhouette which appeals to the current demographic of Indian customers. Erode is committed to keeping Jamakkalam alive by sourcing the fabrics and labour locally and creating spaces where these pieces of history can be taught and moved forward. The finished product is a perfect blend of the traditional weaving techniques of the Jangamar workers producing Jamakkalam fabrics and the fresh touch of Mumbai workers tailoring these fabrics for today’s market.
The Jamakkalam weavers of Tamil Nadu are representative of innumerable similar regional traditions slowly coming to the precipice of extinction because of the increasing culture of mass production. The influence of non-Indian cultures that has been omnipresent since colonialism has taken a unique shape in present society and is slowly pushing local and indigenous art and crafts out of the market. A revival of these practices is crucial to preserve the essence of Indian art as they are a living link to history. Organisations like Erode Clothing and Centre for Weavers are a perfect example of how small steps can compound to a better preservation of our ancient heritage. As a person of the present generation, it is of utmost importance to keep such unique practices alive and strike a balance between tradition and modernity that helps bridge the gap between the past and the present.
